This is a guide to the New York you've always wanted to see but feared might have disappeared for good. It depicts a city of Edward Hopper diners and down-at-heel dive bars, overstocked grocery stores and mountainous pastrami sandwiches. From Patsy's Pizzeria in Harlem, to the Nom Wah Tea Parlor in Chinatown, taking in along the way Katz's, the "21" Club and McSorley's Old Ale House, in these long-established Manhattan businesses, the city's cantankerous spirit lives on.